I knew him as "the professor." It took me a few visits to understand the nickname- he was one of those people that you wanted to pause mid-conversation so you could locate a pad of paper to take notes. More one-line wisdom came out of him than anyone I've ever met.
Watu is a modern interpretation of an ancient story about the first Polynesian visitors to make contact with North America. They were received by the Native people but after pressing their hopes of one day returning home, the indigenous community created a rainbow bridge for them. Some Polynesians stayed while the rest crossed the rainbow bridge back to their homeland. In this short film, two Native Hawaiians also exhibit the same yearning for a sense of place as their ancestors did so long ago. Hearing the story, they search for this "rainbow bridge." During their search, what they finds the ocean. The waves become their bridge and the connection to Hawaii is strengthened.
Alongside Surfer Magazine and RED Camera Cinema, our good friends Cliff Kapono and Jensen Young-Sik set out to provide audiences with a refreshing take on California's history and the importance of home.
Watch the film on surfermag.com
I had heaps of fun shaping a classic, old school log from a template i've been using since i was 17 called "the piggly hanger."
"There is a small town east of O‘ahu’s fabled North Shore called Lā‘ie, where Matty Raynor raises his family and builds beautiful wave sliding crafts under the Raynor Surfboards label. His shaping bay is in his front yard to allow him to be a loving husband and dad by day and board builder by night. It’s classic country living at it its finest and a testament to two of the most important things in his life: family and surfing. While Matty is known for his “quiver killers,”hybrid shortboards that can be ridden in a variety of conditions, this Waiola vanguard is a multi-dimensional craftsman. He looked back into yesteryears to build a hand-shaped “Piggly Hanger” nose rider for the Waiola Life and had our brand vanguards–Rosie Jafurs and Keoki Saguibo–take it for a test drive at a mysto-surf spot called Chocolates, which only breaks when the North Shore is 15-foot or bigger. It was good fun documenting the making of the Waiola x Raynor Surfboards Piggly Hanger and even more watching it glide through the ocean naturally untouched."
"Earlier this winter, North Shore shaper Matty Raynor took an unorthodox approach to cutting a blank. Where as he would normally mow through the foam, finely sand the rails, and take the utmost precaution to ensure that he had dialed in the shape perfectly, Matty opted to just glass the damn thing. Yep, he just glassed a blank. “I’d been looking at this style of blank at Fiberglass Hawaii for a while, and every time I saw it I would think to myself: Ya know, I bet you could surf this blank pretty much as it is,” says Raynor. “And you pretty much could. I may sound like the anti-shaper here, and by no means am I taking anything away from what we do as a profession, but it just goes to show that no matter how much care and creativity we put into new design, if you’re a good surfer and have the basic template underneath your feet, you can still rip,” adds Raynor with a laugh. “That being said, I promise the boards we shape are still infinitely better than if you were to just glass a blank.” In the clip above, Daniel Jones, Ulu boy, and Andrew Jacobson prove Matty’s theory holds water."
-Jeff Mull, Surfer Magazine.
No gadgetry, no gimmicks. No new "complex flex-regulating constructions" here.
No statements, no sales pitch.
Welcome to a "fuckery-free" zone, where a few friends play around on a sealed chunk of raw foam.
Its for fun.