Last year was Tom's first year away from home (and his first time away from some of the better varieties of reef breaks he grew up surfing.) Now going to school at Point Loma in La Jolla, CA, Tom's quiver has evolved to compensate for some less powerful conditions.
Thomas Williams: 5'9" x 160 lbs.
Boards left to right:
5'6 Ranga (EPS/epoxy:) 19 1/2 x 2 3/8 27.3cl
5'10 Delano: 18 5/8 x 2 5/16 25.6cl #boardsforboobies
5'3 Nugget: 19 3/4 x 2 1/2 29.0cl
5'10 Alpha (R.I.P.:) 18 1/2 x 2 1/4 25.4cl
Thomas on his 5'10 Delano is some small/punchy stuff.
Tom riding the same 5'10 Delano in some more solid surf from a few weeks ago.
Slop-pop on the 5'6 Ranga.
What we see, depends mainly on what we look for." -John Lubbock.
When people send me action shots, I zoom in right away.
I want to see where the rider's weight is distributed- how far forward or back they are in relation to the board's apex. I look at the wake trail behind them to see how smooth their tracks are- if there are any hiccups in front or behind them. What I want to see in this type of situation is a smooth, frictionless cut through the water's surface from the forward edge trailing out the tail where all water that is compressed as the board's concaves force it through the fins explode like exhaust out of a tail pipe. Proper planing. That's all. #perspectives #bladesonwater #padang Luis Heinert, 6'0" Delano.